Wednesday, October 1, 2014

Microcontroller panel programming jig for crazy clock

I'm considering making a whole pile of crazy clock retrofit boards.

Step 1 of that is panelizing the boards. This is a bit of a tricky operation in Eagle, as it involves breaking the normal synchronizing connection between the schematic and the board. You start by making a copy of just the .brd file for your design. Open the copy and modify it by replacing the box around the outside of the board with a series of disconnected lines, leaving a 100 mil section on each side that's not detached. Next, use the group tool to lasso a box around your entire circuit and use the clone tool to copy it, placing the copies in a grid. Once you're done with that, add another outline to the dimension layer to make a frame around your boards. The purpose for the space between the boards and the frame around the outside is twofold - to add structural integrity to the panel as a whole  and to space the boards a bit to aid in pick-n-place operations.


You'll notice that there are 10 holes around the edge of the panel. The purpose for those holes takes us to our next manufacturing step. Well, not quite. The crystal for the crazy clock is a through-hole part. Those have to be installed by hand individually. There's no escaping that, unfortunately. If you don't do it yourself, you've got to pay someone else to do it - it's not a step that can be easily automated.

The crazy clock is a microcontroller based product. Micro controllers come from the factory blank. Before they can do the work for which they're intended, they must be fused and programmed. The crazy clock board has an ISP footprint on the bottom for this purpose. But the job requires connecting a programmer to it long enough for it to talk to the controller and give it its programming.

Since so far the crazy clocks have been programmed to order, but if you're going to get 300 boards picked-and-placed en masse, you're not going to want to break the individual boards out and fuse and program them individually. Instead, you're going to want to make a jig to hit a bunch of them in a single step.

At first, I had a mental image of an ISP squid made of a 6 port USB hub, 6 USB AVR programmers, ISP cables and a pogo adapter. There just had to be a better way. And, indeed, there is. This guy has designed a combination of sketch and java code to make a standalone scripted AVR programmer. Hook it up, push the button and wait until the green LED lights up. Lather, rinse, repeat.

The only downside is that his reference design is based on an ATMega1284P. Since I'm programming ATTinys, I don't need such a huge chip to do the job. I'm going to adapt his code to use an ATMega328P instead.

And this takes us back to those holes. The holes are intended to fit over #4 bolts on the programming jig. Each pair of holes at the top and bottom will be used to align a 6 position programming jig to hit six of the controllers at once. Once the first six are done, you move the jig to the next hole and repeat the operation on those six. And so on.

While I'm at the programming, it'd be a really good opportunity to actually test the boards as well. There are two parts of the board that need testing - the boost converter and the controller and clock interface. The natural way to test the power supply is to have it actually power the whole thing while the programming is taking place. An ATMega master and at ATTiny slave during programming shouldn't require more than a few mA - well within the designed capabilities of the converter. And once the programming is finished, the sketch should start running, and pulses should start coming out of the clock terminals. Detecting those are a simple matter of a pair of LEDs mounted in opposed-polarity parallel. Each crazy clock board will individually power its own programmer. The only common connection between the boards will be the BATT connector supplying 1.5 volts to all 6 from a AA battery, and the GO pin coming from a switch mounted on the corner of the board to initiate the programming process.

OSH Park sells individual boards by the threes. This is ideal for pogo pin jigs, because you want to use two boards held a fixed distance apart to hold the pogo pins straight and parallel. The top board will be fully populated with all of the LEDs and controllers. The bottom board will get no parts other than the pogo pins coming through from the top. The two boards will be held together with 4 1/2" standoffs and 8 1/4" bolts.

Of course, you need to program the ATMega controllers before you can use the jig to program the ATTinys on the panel(s). Each ATMega will need its own ISP. You can't re-use the target connector because it's going to have pogo pins installed in it. Well, that, and the !RESET line isn't actually connected to the !RESET pin of the ATMega, but rather a GPIO pin so that the mega can assert it to force the tiny into the programming state.

So you connect a AA battery to the power input of the jig, then press the jig down on the panel and press the button. You should see the programming LEDs go from red to green, and then each of the pairs of test LEDs will start blinking in time with whatever pattern was loaded.


Friday, September 26, 2014

AVR ISP Pogo adapter

I've been buying and using SparkFun's ISP Pogo adapter, but there are a couple of things about it's design that - at least for me - could be improved.

The basic design - two boards that are rigidly fixed in a precise vertical alignment each supporting the pins - is good. But I don't value the Molex and JST connectors. I'd rather be able to grasp more easily onto the top board without having so much stuff in the way.

Fortunately, designing one isn't hard. Just put two 6 pin AVR ISP footprints on a board and connect each related trace. You use a pair of boards to make one fixture, and since they're both the same, they'll both align perfectly. My big hope is that if I use a pair of 1/2" #4 threaded spacer between the two boards and a 1/4" #4 bolt on both sides of each to hold the boards on, then there will be enough room on the lower board to permanently attach an IDC 6 pin cable to a header, leaving the top of the top board completely open and usable as a grip/pressure surface.

You assemble the adapter and align the pogo pins the same way SparkFun says to do it on theirs. Start  by attaching a 2x6 header to what will become the bottom board, making sure to install it on the TOP of the board. Then attach a 2x3 pin IDC cable to that. Next, mechanically assembling the two boards together, making sure that the TOP of each faces the same direction and is oriented the same way. Then you temporarily attach a piece of cellophane tape to the top of the top board, then insert the pogo pins through the bottom board and into the holes of the top board so that they rest against the tape. Solder the pins to the bottom board, then remove the tape and solder the pins from the top of the top board. The second footprint on the top board will be left unconnected.

It turns out that SparkFun's drill holes are the same diameter as the Pogo pin itself. They may be counting on their PCB vendor consistently erring on larger holes. I can only hope that OSHPark does the same. A snug fit is ok, but not fitting at all would be bad. We'll see.

I envision bigger things from this design, potentially. Because the top is (nominally) flat, you could remove the top two screws and screw longer ones in, attaching the whole adapter to a larger programming jig, possibly for mass programming panels of devices all at once. The only hard part of that is figuring out how to get avrdude to individually address multiple USBTiny programmers simultaneously attached.

Monday, September 22, 2014

Crazy clock power consumption

I've been mostly guessing about the power consumption of the Crazy Clock controller. But today, I validated my guesses.

My Rigol DS1052E doesn't have an integration function. As Dave explained recently on EEVblog, integration is the best way to quantify power consumption when the waveform is complex. If you can graph amperage against time and integrate that, the result is energy consumed against time - mAs/s. It's not exactly analogous, because the mAs/s isn't really a rate. It's the number of mAs consumed in a second's worth of time.

I took the whole kit-n-kaboodle to work today early and performed the integration. The result was that while the controller sleeps, there's around a 1 kHz complex waveform consisting of a sharp rise to 1.25mA or so, then a decay down to 0. My Rigol scope said it was an average of around 220 µA. But is that accurate in terms of energy consumption?

The integration function over one cycle of that complex waveform reported 220 nAs (actually, it was 220 µVs, but with a µCurrent Gold set for the µA/mV scale, so change Volts to Amps and divide by 1000). Since that was over the course of 1 ms of time, it's 220 nAs/.001 sec, or 220 µAs/s - the same as the 220 µA average current reported by my Rigol.

And that makes logical sense as well. The boost converter is turning 1.5 volts from a AA battery into 3.3 volts, and the datasheet says it should be doing so at roughly 80% efficiency. The ATTiny while napping should be consuming around 100 µA @ 3.3 volts when clocked at 500 kHz. In principle, that means that the battery draw should actually be something like 275 µA, so it's probable that either my measurements are a tiny bit off, the controller is a tiny bit more frugal or the boost converter is a tiny bit more efficient. Or all 3. But it's still in very much the correct ballpark.

Saturday, September 20, 2014

Failure is one thing. Not knowing why is another.

For the first time, I'm stymied.

I've made mistakes since I started this making thing. All of them have been learning opportunities. If you've bee following me on twitter, you'll have seen some "Tips du jour" - most of those are lessons that I've learned from figuring out what I did wrong.

Well, now I've got a situation I can't figure out.

I have the same circuit on two different boards. One one board, it works perfectly. On the other, it doesn't work at all.

The circuit in question is a boost converter based around the NCP1450-5 boost controller. Both circuits have the identical schematic. The board layouts differ, but  I've conferred with a colleague at work and he didn't see anything wrong with it either.

The symptom is that with no load, the output is 5 volts. But while circuit A can supply up to an amp of output with less than a tenth of a volt of sag, barely 100 mA of load on circuit B is sufficient for the voltage to sag down to the battery voltage. It's as if the controller "gives up" on trying.

My first thought was that the feedback sampling was being drawn from too close to the output of the regulator as opposed to near the load. But if you do the math, there isn't enough voltage drop on the traces of either design to account for anything.

I then thought that perhaps the output filter cap was too far away from the cathode of the diode. So I added a 68 µF tantalum cap tacked onto the end of the cathode and a short wire to ground. That didn't help.

The board that doesn't work also has a LiPoly battery charger on it, but the exact same circuit on a separate board has been used in concert with the working version of the booster board for a while now, so the mere presence of that circuit doesn't cause any trouble (and why would it anyway?).
The schematic

The board that doesn't work


The board that works.

Monday, September 15, 2014

Pi Power destructive testing report

I took some time this evening and pressed Pi Power to, and beyond, its limits.

First, one thing I discovered is that the failure mode that I observed was that the MOSFET shorts. That causes the input voltage to pass through unmodified to the output voltage, which would likely destroy the Pi. I think a follow-on version of Pi Power will need to add an output over-voltage protection circuit of some sort. That will, however, raise the price.

Second, it looks like I am going to need to de-rate the top end of the voltage range. As the input voltage increases, so does the switching frequency. At 14 volts, the frequency is north of 300 kHz. That's enough that the capacitance of the MOSFET (that is, its maximum switching speed) starts to contribute excessive power dissipation, causing it to heat up. 2 amps at 15 volt input was enough to blow the MOSFET after a few minutes. At 14 volts, it was still hanging on.

I also pressed Pi Power with 9 volts input to see where the current overload protection would trip. When I tried it before, I was using a weaker 12 volt power supply which wasn't able to get that far. I found that the current protection kicks in at around 4.25 amps. The current limit resistor value of 39 kΩ came out of an online TI design tool. I did the math on the datasheet and came up with a value closer to 22 kΩ, and posed a question to StackOverflow about it and never got an answer. But it looks like my calculations were more correct than TI's. The question is whether to change the value in the design to reduce the current limit to be more in line with the limitations of the circuit, or leave it high so that it basically just protects against dead shorts.

Still, in most cases I've personally observed, the current draw of a reasonably loaded Raspberry Pi is closer to 1A than 2. And at that load, with an input voltage of 6-14 volts, Pi Power does just fine.

Wednesday, August 27, 2014

µBoost user guide

This is the permanent spot for the µBoost user guide.

The µBoost is a battery powered USB power supply. It can supply up to 1A @ 5V from 3 primary cells (AA, C or D) or up to 500 mA from 2 primary cells.

You can use any supply voltage as long as it is lower than 5 volts. That means that you can use a LiPoly, NiCd, NiMh or any other chemistry you like.

Use of primary cells at more than 1A of current draw is not recommended. The batteries' internal resistance will cause them to get quite hot. Additionally, the higher the current draw, the less energy the batteries will deliver before they die (the extra energy is lost as heat). This is not a problem with most secondary battery chemistries, such as NiMh, Lion or LiPoly. If you wish, you can add a battery charger in parallel with the battery and µBoost.

The quiescent current of the converter (that is, its consumption with no load) is around 140 µA, which means that without being used, a set of AA batteries would last around 2 years.

The lower the input voltage, the hotter the MOSFET, diode and inductor will get during high current operation. It is not recommended to pull 1A with a 3 volt (2 battery) supply. Even if this weren't excessive switch current for the MOSFET, it would require pulling too much current from the primary cells than is good for them. If you heat up primary or secondary cells they can leak or explode.


Theory of operation

The µBoost is built around an NCP1450 boost converter controller with an external MOSFET switch. Because the switch is external, the controller itself has no limit on how much current it can switch (or supply). The MOSFET itself has a maximum drain current rating of a massive 8 amps, but in a boost converter arrangement the switching current is generally much higher than the output current rating. The same is true of the Schottky diode, which is rated at 3 amps and a maximum forward voltage drop of 0.5 V and the inductor, which is rated for over 2 amps.

A boost converter works because an inductor resists a change in the current flowing through it by generating a voltage. The inductor is connected between the line and load. Immediately after the inductor is a switch between the inductor's output and ground (in this case, the switch is the MOSFET). When the switch is closed, the inductor is connected across the input voltage, and it is effectively "charged." When the switch is opened, the current flow through the inductor is interrupted. The inductor attempts to "correct" this state of affairs by generating a high(er) voltage. That voltage passes through the diode to the load. When the switch is closed, the diode is reverse-biased and blocks current flow the "wrong" way from the load. The output filter capacitor supplies the load during this time.

The two data lines have resistor voltage dividers. These dividers are set to provide a constant voltage to the data pins. These voltages tell Apple iDevices the ampacity of the charger. The spec for these voltages is unpublished, but was discovered by the good folks at AdaFruit.

The only difference between the 500 mA circuit and the 1A circuit is the high side D+ resistors. It is 75k for 1A of charge current and 43k for 500 mA.


Schematic

Tuesday, August 26, 2014

Low power breakthrough

I've made a few battery powered projects since I've started, and the one constant in all of them is that none of them had a power switch. All of them (that had a microcontroller), went to sleep and used either a button interrupt or a timer to wake up again.

I've discovered that all of this time I was missing a crucial power-saving step.

One of the things I'd been doing in setup() was turning off all of the excess peripherals in the PRR - the Power Reduction Register. It turns out, however, that this is insufficient to turn the A/D converter off completely. You also must (first) clear the ADEN bit in ADCSRA. Not doing so wastes around 250 µA. It doesn't sound like a lot, but for the blinky earrings, which are powered by a CR1225, that is enough to kill the battery in about a week rather than allowing it to sit powered off basically for the shelf life of the battery. In the Crazy Clock, it's enough to reduce the (estimated) battery life from 18 months or so down to 3.

So... Before you put an AVR to sleep, clear the ADEN bit in ADCSRA and then set as many bits as you can in PRR.